It’s been months since my Skyline has been buttoned up, trouble-shot, tuned and detailed. But I never closed the book on the 500WHP Project here on the blog. That’s a loose end I think I should tie up right about now.
I wish I noticed it. I should have. It should have been me. It’s my car and I was trying to be extra attentive that day.
When we were bombing the track at Motorsports Ranch a few weeks ago at Skyline Nationals 2015 (I still need to write a blog post about that meet!) it was 2 days after the car got out of PowerDynamix in McKinney, TX having a ton of work done. I was already a bit nervous to take the car out and bash on it without any real shakedown test before hand. If an oil line or the new fuel rail started leaking, or worse…broke, I would have been in a precarious situation nearly 2 hours’ drive from home. So I was paying extra close attention to the smells, sounds and scenes of fluid leaks.
Or, at least, I thought I was.
In Part I we left off with my GT-R waiting for some parts to arrive before Jeff at Powerdynamix could get started doing the heavy work on the car. But one of the parts I’d dropped off with him, along with the car, was the new Comp Stage 2 clutch. Jeff wasted no time.
Let the chain-modding begin.
Those of you readers located in ‘MURICA might already know that the first annual Skyline Nationals meet is happening in about a month.
Those of you who actually read this blog also are well aware that a few weeks ago it was revealed to me that my car is running scary lean on it’s current tune. (A chipped Tomei ECU).
Well, herein lies the effort to prepare for the former while remedying the latter.
So I went to the dyno expecting some decent numbers. It was a Mustang dyno that I’ve actually been on with other cars. Nicknamed “The Heartbreaker”, this dyno gives more humble numbers than the brag-force-one Dynojet.
First pull – 14.5psi netted me 344whp. I wanted at least 375. Steve Kan – a local tuning guru who was running the dyno day – turned to me and told me it’s running scary lean. Over 13:1 AFR. I told him to turn the boost down on the Blitz SBC-id a couple of clicks and do a second pull. He did, still around 14psi and over 13:1 AFR.
So we backed it off the dyno and I drove it home off boost as much as possible.
A while ago I posted about my obsession with period-correct NISMO accessories. I need all of them. I love seeing mods on an 80’s or 90’s Japanese sports car that came from the era when that car was at the pinnacle of technology. As outdated and unstylish as they may be in today’s tuning world, they speak to a bygone era and give us a taste of the road that tuners a generation before us paved to get us where we are today.
Back when I wrote that post, I had recently picked up an old NISMO strut tower bar for cheap on Yahoo! Japan Auctions.
It was in “original” condition. That is to say it was old and rather beat up. While a patina can be charming in certain details of a 25+ year old collectible automobile, this isn’t one of those details I wanted to show it’s age.
I bought my GT-R with all of the bells and whistles fully functional. This means my HICAS had not been deleted or modified in any way. That’s one of the reasons I picked this particular one.
A few months after purchasing it, I came across a vintage NISMO steering wheel that I bought for the car. In the process of changing steering wheel from the MOMO that was on there to the NISMO – I managed to lose track of the “zero” position of the steering angle sensor that is built into the steering wheel’s clock spring.
In doing my research to try and resolve the issue, I discovered two things:
- Lots of people have the same problem.
- Nobody has an easy fix for it.
Hanging with Jordan Cole is a guaranteed pleasure. Having him point his camera at my prized possession is always an honor. See more of his work at JordanColePhotos.com
I’ve got a laundry list of things like this to take care of. That I’ve knocked the first two off the list just tickles me.
It’s pretty common for the rear wiper on these cars (Standard on all GT-R’s by the way. I thought that was…..odd.) to become weathered and their finish to wear off. What results is a splotchy, silvery finish which looks like ass. Of course it’s an easy fix with a rattle can full of something matte black.
That’s the “before” pic. Kinda hard to tell but that’s a silver wiper arm and blade body. They should both be black.
The freaking ugly-ass logo…I love it. I’ve won an auction on Yahoo Japan for a NISMO strut tower bar. It came really cheap but it does need a bit of refurb. I plan to strip it down and repaint it. I can recreate the decal really easily.